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A shot is drunk in one go, and that changes everything: there is no time for the flavours to sort themselves out on the palate, so they have to arrive already assembled. That is why the good ones are short on ingredients and long on cold — two or three things you understand instantly, served almost frozen.

Temperature does more work here than the recipe does. A lukewarm shot tastes of alcohol and little else; the same one, properly cold, turns round and smooth. Chill the spirit in the freezer and the glass with it, and measure: quick to drink does not mean it does not matter how much goes in.

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