[{"data":1,"prerenderedAt":-1},["ShallowReactive",2],{"$fWoP39EGfjSWOrrtnsznpOhG0aCfunr24VQ54ZPX_mcc":3},{"articulo":4,"relacionados":218},{"cuerpo":5,"extracto":205,"fecha":209,"imagen":210,"metaDescripcion":211,"slug":212,"titulo":213,"tituloSeo":211,"updatedAt":217},{"_type":6,"en":7,"es":108},"localeBlocks",[8,19,28,36,44,52,60,68,76,84,92,100],{"_key":9,"_type":10,"children":11,"markDefs":17,"style":18},"k121","block",[12],{"_key":13,"_type":14,"marks":15,"text":16},"k122","span",[],"For a hundred years, cocktails have moved between two coordinates: sweet and sour. Almost the entire classic canon is a negotiation between those two forces, with bitterness as an occasional third guest. What is happening now is that a fourth coordinate, one the kitchen has been exploiting for decades, has finally arrived at the bar.",[],"normal",{"_key":20,"_type":10,"children":21,"markDefs":26,"style":27},"k123",[22],{"_key":23,"_type":14,"marks":24,"text":25},"k124",[],"From the salted rim to broth",[],"h2",{"_key":29,"_type":10,"children":30,"markDefs":35,"style":18},"k125",[31],{"_key":32,"_type":14,"marks":33,"text":34},"k126",[],"Savoury is not new to cocktails, but for a century and a half it was confined to two gestures: the salted rim of a Margarita and the Bloody Mary. Both are tolerated exceptions rather than a line of work.",[],{"_key":37,"_type":10,"children":38,"markDefs":43,"style":18},"k127",[39],{"_key":40,"_type":14,"marks":41,"text":42},"k128",[],"What has changed is the ambition. It is no longer about adding salt to a sweet drink, but about building the entire drink on a savoury base. Ingredients like kombu, miso, shiso, tomato water and teas are expanding what a cocktail can be, and the Food Institute points to broth and miso as the two savoury ingredients set to dominate the year.",[],{"_key":45,"_type":10,"children":46,"markDefs":51,"style":27},"k129",[47],{"_key":48,"_type":14,"marks":49,"text":50},"k130",[],"Why the Martini and not another drink",[],{"_key":53,"_type":10,"children":54,"markDefs":59,"style":18},"k131",[55],{"_key":56,"_type":14,"marks":57,"text":58},"k132",[],"It is no accident that the laboratory for this trend is the Martini. It is the least sweet classic in the canon and the one that leaves the most room: two ingredients, no citrus, no sweetness to mask anything. Whatever you add is perceived in full.",[],{"_key":61,"_type":10,"children":62,"markDefs":67,"style":18},"k133",[63],{"_key":64,"_type":14,"marks":65,"text":66},"k134",[],"That is where the variations now appearing on menus come from: tomato water replacing part of the vermouth, house-stuffed olives, smoked salt on the rim, a miso wash on the spirit. The olive, which was always there, has gone from garnish to statement of intent.",[],{"_key":69,"_type":10,"children":70,"markDefs":75,"style":18},"k135",[71],{"_key":72,"_type":14,"marks":73,"text":74},"k136",[],"It is reaching whiskey too. An Old Fashioned with miso-washed bourbon and a touch of honey is, on paper, a provocation; in the glass it works because the miso brings salt and fermented depth where before there was only sugar and oak.",[],{"_key":77,"_type":10,"children":78,"markDefs":83,"style":27},"k137",[79],{"_key":80,"_type":14,"marks":81,"text":82},"k138",[],"Where to start without ruining a bottle",[],{"_key":85,"_type":10,"children":86,"markDefs":91,"style":18},"k139",[87],{"_key":88,"_type":14,"marks":89,"text":90},"k140",[],"The cheapest way in is salt, and not as a garnish but as an ingredient. Two or three drops of brine, or a pinch dissolved in water, in any drink with citrus. At those quantities salt does not make the drink taste salty: it suppresses the perception of bitterness and lifts the fruit. It is the same trick any cook uses, and behind the bar it is still uncommon.",[],{"_key":93,"_type":10,"children":94,"markDefs":99,"style":18},"k141",[95],{"_key":96,"_type":14,"marks":97,"text":98},"k142",[],"The next step is tomato water, which requires no equipment: blend ripe tomatoes, strain them overnight through a cloth over a bowl and keep the clear liquid that drips out. It tastes intensely of tomato and does not colour the drink. Use it to replace part of the vermouth in a Martini and you have the savoury version without buying anything.",[],{"_key":101,"_type":10,"children":102,"markDefs":107,"style":18},"k143",[103],{"_key":104,"_type":14,"marks":105,"text":106},"k144",[],"And a warning, because this trend lends itself to disaster: savoury works as a counterpoint, not as the sole lead. A drink that tastes like soup is not bold, it is a mistake. The benchmark is that the drinker notices something they cannot quite identify and wants another sip to work it out. The moment they can name the ingredient, you have gone too far.",[],[109,117,125,133,141,149,157,165,173,181,189,197],{"_key":110,"_type":10,"children":111,"markDefs":116,"style":18},"k97",[112],{"_key":113,"_type":14,"marks":114,"text":115},"k98",[],"Durante cien años, la coctelería se ha movido entre dos coordenadas: dulce y ácido. Casi todo el recetario clásico es una negociación entre esas dos fuerzas, con el amargor como tercer invitado ocasional. Lo que está pasando ahora es que una cuarta coordenada, la que la cocina lleva décadas explotando, ha entrado por fin en la barra.",[],{"_key":118,"_type":10,"children":119,"markDefs":124,"style":27},"k99",[120],{"_key":121,"_type":14,"marks":122,"text":123},"k100",[],"Del borde de sal al caldo",[],{"_key":126,"_type":10,"children":127,"markDefs":132,"style":18},"k101",[128],{"_key":129,"_type":14,"marks":130,"text":131},"k102",[],"Lo salado no es nuevo en coctelería, pero llevaba siglo y medio confinado a dos gestos: el borde de sal de la Margarita y el Bloody Mary. Ambos son excepciones toleradas, no una línea de trabajo.",[],{"_key":134,"_type":10,"children":135,"markDefs":140,"style":18},"k103",[136],{"_key":137,"_type":14,"marks":138,"text":139},"k104",[],"Lo que ha cambiado es la ambición. Ya no se trata de añadir sal a un trago dulce, sino de construir el trago entero sobre una base salada. Ingredientes como el kombu, el miso, el shiso, el agua de tomate y los tés están ampliando lo que un cóctel puede llegar a ser, y desde el Food Institute se apunta al caldo y al miso como los dos ingredientes salados que van a dominar el año.",[],{"_key":142,"_type":10,"children":143,"markDefs":148,"style":27},"k105",[144],{"_key":145,"_type":14,"marks":146,"text":147},"k106",[],"Por qué el Martini y no otro",[],{"_key":150,"_type":10,"children":151,"markDefs":156,"style":18},"k107",[152],{"_key":153,"_type":14,"marks":154,"text":155},"k108",[],"No es casualidad que el laboratorio de esta tendencia sea el Martini. Es el clásico con menos azúcar del recetario y el que más espacio deja: dos ingredientes, sin cítrico, sin dulce que tape. Cualquier cosa que añadas se percibe entera.",[],{"_key":158,"_type":10,"children":159,"markDefs":164,"style":18},"k109",[160],{"_key":161,"_type":14,"marks":162,"text":163},"k110",[],"De ahí han salido las variaciones que se están viendo en cartas: agua de tomate en lugar de parte del vermut, aceitunas rellenas en casa, sal ahumada en el borde, un lavado de miso en el destilado. La aceituna, que siempre estuvo ahí, ha pasado de guarnición a declaración de intenciones.",[],{"_key":166,"_type":10,"children":167,"markDefs":172,"style":18},"k111",[168],{"_key":169,"_type":14,"marks":170,"text":171},"k112",[],"También está llegando al whisky. Un Old Fashioned con el bourbon lavado en miso y un toque de miel es, sobre el papel, una provocación; en la copa funciona porque el miso aporta sal y profundidad fermentada donde antes solo había azúcar y madera.",[],{"_key":174,"_type":10,"children":175,"markDefs":180,"style":27},"k113",[176],{"_key":177,"_type":14,"marks":178,"text":179},"k114",[],"Por dónde empezar sin arruinar una botella",[],{"_key":182,"_type":10,"children":183,"markDefs":188,"style":18},"k115",[184],{"_key":185,"_type":14,"marks":186,"text":187},"k116",[],"La puerta de entrada más barata es la sal, y no como guarnición sino como ingrediente. Dos o tres gotas de salmuera, o una pizca disuelta en agua, en cualquier trago con cítrico. La sal no hace que el trago sepa salado en esas cantidades: suprime la percepción de amargor y realza la fruta. Es el mismo truco que usa cualquier cocinero, y en la barra sigue siendo poco frecuente.",[],{"_key":190,"_type":10,"children":191,"markDefs":196,"style":18},"k117",[192],{"_key":193,"_type":14,"marks":194,"text":195},"k118",[],"El siguiente paso es el agua de tomate, que se hace sin equipo: tritura tomates maduros, cuélalos toda la noche en un paño sobre un bol y quédate con el líquido transparente que suelta. Sabe intensamente a tomate y no tiñe el trago. Sustituye con ella parte del vermut de un Martini y tienes la versión salada sin comprar nada.",[],{"_key":198,"_type":10,"children":199,"markDefs":204,"style":18},"k119",[200],{"_key":201,"_type":14,"marks":202,"text":203},"k120",[],"Y una advertencia, porque esta tendencia se presta al desastre: lo salado funciona como contrapunto, no como protagonista absoluto. Un trago que sabe a sopa no es audaz, es un error. La referencia es que el comensal note algo que no sabe identificar y quiera otro sorbo para averiguarlo. En cuanto puede ponerle nombre al ingrediente, te has pasado.",[],{"_type":206,"en":207,"es":208},"localeText","Miso, tomato water, kombu, broth. Cocktails are stepping outside the sweet-sour axis they have occupied for a century, and the Martini has become the testing ground.","Miso, agua de tomate, kombu, caldo. La coctelería está saliendo del eje dulce-ácido en el que llevaba un siglo instalada, y el Martini se ha convertido en el campo de pruebas.","2026-08-04","https:\u002F\u002Fcdn.sanity.io\u002Fimages\u002Fydq252gu\u002Fproduction\u002Ff00d40008ed95b89bf17ccfe5d8ca493b30f7611-1672x941.png",null,"el-umami-llega-a-la-barra-cocteles-salados",{"_type":214,"en":215,"es":216},"localeString","Umami reaches the bar","El umami llega a la barra","2026-08-08T01:02:32Z",[219,229,239],{"extracto":220,"fecha":223,"imagen":224,"slug":225,"titulo":226},{"_type":206,"en":221,"es":222},"After a decade of smoke, tweezers and twelve ingredients per drink, the industry is reversing course. It is not nostalgia: maximalism simply stopped impressing anyone, and bars discovered that the hard part is not surprising someone, it is getting them to come back.","Tras una década de humo, pinzas y doce ingredientes por trago, el sector está dando marcha atrás. No es nostalgia: es que el maximalismo dejó de impresionar y las barras descubrieron que lo difícil no es sorprender a alguien, sino conseguir que vuelva.","2026-07-30","https:\u002F\u002Fcdn.sanity.io\u002Fimages\u002Fydq252gu\u002Fproduction\u002F13036742842fde991740548bb11a5fbd1e8efcb5-1672x941.png","volviendo-a-los-clasicos",{"_type":214,"en":227,"es":228},"Back to the classics","Volviendo a los clásicos",{"extracto":230,"fecha":233,"imagen":234,"slug":235,"titulo":236},{"_type":206,"en":231,"es":232},"Half of consumers say they want to drink less, but they are not staying home. They are ordering something else. And the bars that understood this early are serving the most interesting drinks on their menu with no alcohol at all.","La mitad de los consumidores dice que quiere beber menos, pero no está dejando de salir. Está pidiendo otra cosa. Y las barras que lo entendieron a tiempo están sirviendo los tragos más interesantes de su carta sin una gota de alcohol.","2026-07-22","https:\u002F\u002Fcdn.sanity.io\u002Fimages\u002Fydq252gu\u002Fproduction\u002F163edae90e3eaab0c2bf576ac6a3b4f5dd9a034f-1672x941.png","beber-menos-y-beber-mejor",{"_type":214,"en":237,"es":238},"Drinking less, drinking better","Beber menos y beber mejor",{"extracto":240,"fecha":243,"imagen":244,"slug":245,"titulo":246},{"_type":206,"en":241,"es":242},"Five people claim to have invented it and none can prove it. But a 1936 newspaper clipping, a casino in Tijuana and a clumsy translation explain its origin far better than any of the legends.","Cinco personas se atribuyen su invención y ninguna puede demostrarlo. Pero hay un recorte de periódico de 1936, un casino en Tijuana y una traducción torpe que explican el origen mucho mejor que cualquiera de las leyendas.","2026-07-10","https:\u002F\u002Fcdn.sanity.io\u002Fimages\u002Fydq252gu\u002Fproduction\u002F59dc568a1667364062ad0e35fbabc43b9616b7e2-1080x589.png","la-verdadera-historia-del-margarita",{"_type":214,"en":247,"es":248},"The true story of the Margarita","La verdadera historia del Margarita"]